-Landscape Resources-

JANUARY: Don't Ignore the Lawn Just Because it is Winter In most parts of the country, lawn grass goes dormant in the winter. In the north, it's too cold for any grass to grow so we wait patiently for spring - sometimes under snow cover, sometimes not. Lawn care doesn't quite end in the winter though. There are still some considerations and concerns that one should be aware of even in the winter.

Clean it up: It is extremely important not to leave debris, leaves, or toys out on the lawn. These things can smother the grass, create disease conditions, and invite insects, mice and other damaging pests.
Be aware of traffic: Under snow cover, or exposed to the elements, dormant grass will tolerate a moderate amount of traffic but a heavily worn path will be slower to green up in the spring and cause compaction.
Monitor weather conditions: Turf is very resilient and can tolerate an extreme winter but certain conditions can be harmful in the long term. It might be worthwhile to chip away a little exposed ice in a low spot if you know a winter storm or deep freeze is approaching. Winters can often be unpredictable and may put your lawn through some extreme conditions during the course of a winter. The best thing to do is make sure the grass has hardened off, you've "put the lawn to bed" properly, monitor the weather, and focus on keeping your sidewalks clear and building snowmen.
In Conclusion: Every step of the way, Natural Concept Landscape is here to assist you with all of your lawn and garden care needs. We offer free consultations and excellent maintenance programs for a very affordable price. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. We are just a phone call away!

FEBRUARY: Crane Fly Maintenance In western Washington, one insect creates turf-damaging problems that may require treatment, the European crane fly (Tipula paludosa). As adults they resemble giant mosquitoes, but the crane fly does not sting, bite, damage structures, or pose any threat to humans and pets. Rumors about crane flies may cause gardeners to overreact, but significant damage occurs only when larvae densities are above 25 to 50 per square foot. Well established, vigorous lawns have been known to have 50 larvae per square foot without showing damage. Birds and a dry autumn will often keep crane flies below damaging numbers. More than 100 species of birds feed on crane fly larvae; starlings love them and can greatly reduce populations. Another natural enemy of crane fly larvae is the ground beetle. The common crane fly (T. oleracea) is a fairly new pest and is considered to be a problem in our area, but has not been widely seen yet. This species has two generations per year. Adults emerge in March/April and September. To determine if you need to take action, monitor in fall and late winter when this species’ larvae are active.

Life Cycle of the European Crane Fly: Crane fly infestations occur primarily in damp locations with abundant vegetation. Adult European crane flies emerge from lawns in mid-August to late September, mate, lay eggs in the soil and die in a few days. The eggs require moist conditions for survival and will die if the soil dries out. In the fall, gray-brown, worm-like larvae hatch and develop a tough skin, and are sometimes referred to as “leatherjackets.” During the day, they feed on roots within one and a half inches of the surface, while on moist nights or wet, cloudy days they feed closer to the surface or emerge to feed on root crowns. During cold winters, they go dormant, although in warm winters they may stay active through January. In late February to April, they feed heavily again. They stop feeding in May and are inactive in the soil until they emerge as adults in August. Then the cycle begins again. You cannot control European crane flies by applying pesticides in the late Page 2 of 3 spring or summer, as the adults will not damage a lawn; it is the larval stage that causes damage.
Do You Have a European Crane Fly Problem?: Outbreaks of crane fly are inconsistent from year to year. The timing of their life cycle is dependent on weather, especially on temperature. Monitoring is essential to determine if you have a problem, and monitoring before damage becomes apparent is the only way to prevent lawn damage. European crane fly damage appears as sparse or brown areas on the lawn in May or June, after the larvae have stopped feeding. These thin areas are susceptible to weed invasion. At this point, the damage is already done, and applying pesticides is not useful. Common crane fly damage appears in January or February. The first year of invasion is usually the worst. If the lawn is healthy, crane flies are only a problem for a year or two before natural enemies keep populations under control.
Monitoring: To determine the number of larvae, survey the lawn in early spring when the grass begins to grow (February to March) or when the weather is consistently warm. This is when larvae become active. Randomly select several 6 inch by 6 inch areas in the lawn. Cut to two inches deep and turn over onto a tarp. Tear the samples apart, especially the thatch layer. Count the grayish-brown, three-quarter to one inch long larvae. (Later, repair the damage you do taking the samples by filling in holes with soil and seed.) Larvae will usually be found at the base of the grass layer or very close to the top of the soil. Multiply the number of larvae in each sample by four. This gives you the number of larvae per square foot. Use the average to make decisions about the lawn. If there are less than 25 grubs per square foot, no treatment is necessary. For levels between 25 and 50 per square foot, increase nutrient levels and continue to monitor every two weeks. If levels exceed 50 grubs per square foot, damage may be Page 3 of 3 significant and treatment is appropriate. Here is a good timeline to review. Winter was mild and damp thus not killing off some of the larvae as a hard freeze generally will. It is expected for the crane fly population to be greater than normal this year. For that reason, be sure to monitor your yard to minimize any potential damage that may be caused by a crane fly infestation. Natural Concept Landscaping Company, Inc. will do lawn inspections and offers crane fly treatments as preventative measures to keep your lawn healthy and beautiful. Treatment for infestation needs to occur within the next 30-45 days. If you notice anything different in your lawn, please be sure to contact us immediately.

MARCH

MARCH: Spring Clean Up Tips Spring is in the air! Spring is a time of rebirth and reawakening from a long winter’s nap. It is also a time to set up your yard for a successful summer. Getting out into the fresh air of spring can do much to revitalize you as well as your plants. Here are some proactive turf care tip that will reward you with a healthier and more vigorous landscape.

Tip #1: Assess your lawn damage. The first thing you should do is to take a walk round your lawn and survey the effects the winter had on your property. If you have a dog, you may have to clean up their winter "activity". There is no quick cure for dog damage except a lot of water to wash the salts from the urine into the soil. In most cases, the grass will recover. If the damage is severe, resodding or new lawn seeding of the areas may be necessary.
Tip #2: Check your grass for Snow Mold. Check your grass for matted patches that could signal the development of Snow Mold. This lawn disease glues the grass blades together, which may inhibit the new grass from growing through the mat. A light raking to break up the matted grass will remedy this situation. If the grass was left too long last fall, an early mowing at 1 1/2 to 2” is advisable. This will remove much of the dead grass from last year’s growth and allow the new growth to come through easier. A light raking of the entire lawn is also beneficial. This is especially true if there are leaves still scattered across the lawn. Note: Be careful if the ground is wet when you are raking. Vigorous raking can uproot the grass plants.
Tip #3: It’s time to fertilize and mow the lawn for the first time. A light application of lawn fertilizer in the spring helps get your grass off to a great start. Wait to fertilize until your lawn needs mowing for the first time. Do a light application and use a slow-release fertilizer; don’t try to feed your lawn for a quick green-up as this usually doesn’t work and has the potential to harm your grass. Page 2 of 2 Allow your grass to grow no more than 3 inches tall before you start mowing. The best general rule to follow is that you want to keep most grass types at least 2 inches tall – this height helps the grass ward off weeds and withstand summer drought. But you don’t want to remove more than a third of the total grass height at any one mowing. Removing too much stresses the grass.
Tip #4: Wait to uncover your garden's roses. Do not uncover your roses until the danger of a heavy frost is over. When you do uncover them, clean away any soil or other organic material that was used to seal them in for the winter. This material can carry disease spores that can infect your plants. While the plants are still dormant, you can improve their health and vigor with these selective pruning steps:  Remove any dead, blackened, or damaged wood.  Prune the cane down to healthy wood, just before a leaf bud.  Remove any branches that may be crossing, that are twiggy, or are growing out of the side of a cane.  Remove old canes at the bud union and leave 3 to 5 good ones that are evenly distributed.  Delay mulching around the plants as this will keep the soil cold and delay the growth of the bushes.
Tip #5: Check the remaining aspects of your landscape for damage, growth progress and needed improvements. Check your woody landscape plants for injury — particularly the evergreens. Do not be too alarmed if you do not see new growth. Wait until the buds have opened before removing any dead branches, unless they are broken. Take the same "wait and see" approach with perennial plants. Remove any mulch that was placed there to protect them. Some plants take a longer time to come out of winter dormancy than others do. If scale insects or tent caterpillars bothered your landscape plants last year, then you should consider spraying with dormant oil before the buds open. This material will smother the egg cases or over-wintering adults. Natural Concept Landscape Co., Inc. is ready to assist you with all of your lawn care needs, offering preventative maintenance as well as on-going lawn and garden maintenance options. Should you notice any problem areas in your lawn, please give us a call to schedule a free consultation. Your lawn will be happy you called us… And you will be too!

APRIL

APRIL: April Showers Make a Gorgeous Lawn April is an important month for lawn care, especially for weed control and fertilizing. While dandelions are great for impromptu bouquets or making a batch of home-made dandelion wine, they can become quite pesky once they start growing in your lawn. Weed control and fertilizing activities don’t take a long time, and the results are well worth it for the carefree and lush yard you'll enjoy during the months to come. To begin, here are some lawn care tools you may find handy. All are readily available and most are not expensive.

In April in most zones, you'll be faced with a limited window of time in which to have success with pre-emergent weed control. It should be done in the early spring and spring. In most zones, this is from mid-March until about late April, possibly early May. The reason is that pre-emergent chemicals only work on weed seeds, stopping them from sprouting. Conversely, a weed-and-feed formula only kills weeds that are already growing. You will apply that in May.
Important notes: DO NOT apply pre-emergent weed controls if you have put down new grass seed or new sod.  Fertilize established lawns with a regular, all-season fertilizer in April. If you have reseeded or are starting new seed in April, apply a lawn-starter food but not a regular fertilizer, which is too strong and will damage the tender grass shoots.
In general, spring is not the time to over-seed mature grassy areas. Sod is best used at this time. For a large area, consult an expert landscaper.
To fill in small bare spots, prepare the soil and broadcast seed or apply seed patch material. Do not allow these areas to dry out. Keep well watered, even with the spring rains, until new grass plants are established. Be careful when mowing over these areas.
If you have spread grass seed or laid grass-patch, these must be kept watered daily, except during rain. Do not allow the soil to dry out between rainfall and waterings.
New sod must be kept well watered. If you see weeds in the sod, cut them out. Mow sod about two inches high, as needed, until June 1st. Then, start mowing new sod with the blade at the highest level.
Do not fertilize zoysia in April. It is dormant in most zones now. However, when you do mow it the first time, give it a "buzz cut." Do this about mid-April, and then continue mowing zoysia short, at about two inches, through the growing season.
After mid-April, apply controls for white grubs and mole crickets, which can severely damage grass plants. These controls can also be applied in May, June or July, as needed.
April is a good month to aerate ("plug" or "core") mature sod. This gives established grass plants more air and growing space. It’s best done with a machine, which can be rented.
During normal mowing, if grass is very long, collect the clippings. If it is not too long, mulch the clippings. They will decompose quickly and release nitrogen back into the soil.
April isn't too late to get a lawn mower tune-up. You may have to wait longer at this time of year, because of the demand on service shops, but it’ll be worth it and the cost is usually minimal. A mower tune-up should include: blade-sharpening, replacement of spark plugs, oil and oil filter change, fuel filter cleaning or change, and any other repairs or replacements that will bring the mower into top running condition
In Conclusion Natural Concept Landscape Co., Inc. is ready to assist you with all of your lawn care needs, offering preventative maintenance as well as on-going lawn and garden maintenance options. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. Should you notice any problem areas in your lawn, please give us a call to schedule a free consultation. Your lawn will be happy you called us… And you will be too!

MAY

MAY: Getting Ready for Summer Spring is the time of year when the sun is warm, the breeze is cool, and the steady hum of lawnmowers once again fills the air. American homeowners take a great deal of pride in their yards, spending about $6.4 billion a year on lawn care, according to the Professional Lawn Care Association of America [source: The Lawn Institute]. They buy seed, fertilizer, herbicide, lawnmowers, string trimmers, and other equipment in an effort to create the ideal lawn: a lush, green expanse of grass that feels cool between the toes. A healthy summer lawn starts with spring maintenance. Winter can alter soil pH, compact the soil, and create conditions friendly to weeds and disease, so it's crucial that you properly clean, fertilize and mow your yard early in the season. So what can you do when winter's receding snow reveals bare spots, invasive plants and other problems with your patch of green? Don't panic -- break out the broadcast spreader and click through our list of spring lawn care tips.

Weed Control: May is a pivotal month in lawn care. All the preparation you put into your lawn in the fall and early spring will now pay off. If you fertilized in late Fall or early Spring then, chances are, you have a healthy lawn and few weeds right now. As dandelions and other spring weeds start rearing their pretty little heads the most effective way to control them is to dig them out individually, taking as much of the root as possible (hand weeding is also the most environmentally friendly way to get rid of weeds). Pulling the top off a weed and pouring boiling water down the root is another way to kill it. The best weed control is a healthy rhizomatous lawn which acts as a weed barrier and chokes out foreign weeds and grasses
Fertilizing: Apply fertilizer near the end of the month. A balanced fertilizer with a 4:1:2 ratio is best. Apply about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet and water soon after to get the fertilizer closer to the roots. A Weed and Feed Fertilizer may help if weeds have started to pop up.
Irrigation: It is time to activate your irrigation system. Having your sprinkler system started up for the season early will eliminate thirsty plants when the rain stops. When the time comes that watering must begin, all you have to do is turn the dial on your controller to the on position and you will be ready to water, ensuring you have a lush green lawn and a healthy landscape. If your sprinkler system was installed properly, turning it on in the spring is relatively easy. Please refer to the diagram, "Backflow Device."  Be sure the manual drain valve is closed. This valve is usually located below or before the backflow device outside your house.  Slowly open the gate valve. This valve is usually located after the meter in the basement on the line going out of your house to the backflow device.  Check the main line, valves, and backflow device for any sign of leakage. Repair breaks as needed.  Open the front cover of your sprinkler timer, find the battery backup (if it has one) and replace. Follow the instructions in your sprinkler's timer manual. Go through all the zones one at a time. Check each zone for water coverage, leaky heads and breaks.  Cut and clean any excess lawn or plant growth away from the sprinkler heads that would inhibit proper operation of the sprinkler head.  Check and make sure the sprinkler heads are level and flush with the grade of the lawn, to insure that they will not be hit my mowers or other lawn equipment.  Be sure your sprinkler heads are at least an inch away from walks or curbing to insure that edgers do not hit them.  Check that the sprinkler heads are adjusted properly and coverage is correct for each zone area. Adjust heads as necessary using your hand and/or tools. Page 3 of 3  Make sure the sprinkler heads are not clogged. If clogged, unscrew the head casing or nozzle and check the filter at the base or in the stem of the head. Clean out the filter with air or water. Check to see if a stone or other debris is lodged in the nozzle; clean or replace as necessary.  If you experience problems with a particular zone, turn that zone off on the timer so the rest of the system can continue to operate normally. Contact Natural Concept Landscape for service.  We suggest checking your system at least two additional times during the watering season. It is especially helpful to check the system whenever you experience severe weather changes, such as increased rain or periods of drought.
Watering: Your lawn should receive 1” of water weekly either by rain or irrigation. If you have trouble spots in your lawn and it looks like it needs some extra water, use a hose and sprinkler rather than running a whole sprinkler cycle. Always water deep and long rather than short and frequently.
Mowing: Mowing will help to bring your lawn out of the winter dormant stage. When you mow your lawn it causes the grass plant to stop focusing on root growth and shift its energy to the blade. Never cut more than 1/3 of the blade off in a mowing and keep the lawn as long as you feel comfortable (we recommend 2-3”). Leave the clippings on the lawn and rake out any large clumps left after mowing. Clippings are about 85% water and leaving them on the lawn will return the nutrients and water to the soil

JUNE

JUNE: Your Spring Maintenance is Paying Off! Summer is by far the most stressful time of year for lawns, that's why it's important to encourage deep rooting and have healthy turf going into the summer months. A lawn can quickly become infested with crabgrass, plagued by grubs, or stricken with drought during a hot, dry, late summer so preparation is key. A lawn with a solid lawn care program can withstand most of the stress that summer can throw at it. A well maintained lawn can even withstand periods of drought with an extensive root zone, appropriate grass type, and proper maintenance. Below are tips for helping promote a healthy landscape that you can enjoy during the summer months.

Mowing Keep your mower blade sharpened and never cut more than 1/3 of the blade off in a mowing. It is a good idea to keep the lawn as long as you feel comfortable (we recommend 2-3”). Leave the clippings on the lawn and rake out any large clumps left after mowing. Clippings are about 85% water and leaving them on the lawn will return the nutrients and water to the soil.
Watering: Your lawn should receive 1” of water weekly either by rain or irrigation should be sufficient if you have a strong root system. Don’t just set your irrigation system and forget it. Watch the lawn for signs of stress and run a cycle when the lawn needs it. Always water deep and long rather than short and frequently.
Weed Control: Hand-weed any undesirable plants. Make sure you get at least 2/3 of the root or the weed will return. Pulling the top off a weed and pouring boiling water down the root is another way to kill it. The best weed control is a healthy rhizomatous lawn which acts as a weed barrier and chokes out foreign weeds and grasses. Do not let them get to seed pod/flower stage or you will be fighting them for a long time!
Fertilizing: If you didn’t fertilize the end of May do so now. A balanced fertilizer with a 4:1:2 ratio is best. Apply about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet and water soon after to get the fertilizer closer to the roots. A Weed and Feed Fertilizer may help if weeds have started to pop up.
Irrigation: It is time to activate your irrigation system. Having your sprinkler system started up for the season early will eliminate thirsty plants when the rain stops. When the time comes that watering must begin, all you have to do is turn the dial on your controller to the on position and you will be ready to water, ensuring you have a lush green lawn and a healthy landscape. Natural Concept Landscape will be happy to activate your system for you and perform any adjustments and/or repairs. Please contact our office to schedule an appointment. Step by step instructions on how to activate your system can be found on the “May tab".
Trees & Shrubs: Insects and disease can aggressively attack trees and shrubs in the summer. Tree and shrub applications should be applied at the first sign of any damage or disease posing on your landscape. If you are unsure about what to do, please contact our office for a free consultation.
Flea, Tick and Perimeter Pests: We all know pesky bugs come out in the warmer months. Don’t let them attack your children, pets and homes. Be aware that you may need a 3-step program to provide a barrier for your home and landscape. Lawn Aeration and Seeding The need for lawn aeration and seeding is most obvious in the summer due to the lawn suffering from the scorching heat. Although you don’t actually start aerating and seeding until the fall, be mindful that it is something your lawn may require.
Hardscape: Hardscape projects can be done anytime of the year since the product isn't going to die from lack of water, however during dry periods the ground will be firmer so it is usually easier to get material to your worksite without tearing up the rest of the lawn, so now is a good time to get busy on a paver patio or retaining wall or a new concrete sidewalk. Every step of the way, Natural Concept Landscape is here to assist you with all of your lawn and garden care needs. We offer free consultations and excellent maintenance programs for a very affordable price. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. We are just a phone call away

JULY

JULY: Maintaining the Spring Green If spring lawn care is about getting your lawn healthy and green, summer lawn care is about KEEPING it healthy while temperatures soar and rainfall becomes a fleeting memory. It’s also about maintaining a lawn that can withstand all the barbecues, games, parties, and running feet that summer has to offer. Here are some tips for keeping your lawn in shape over those long, hot days of summer.

About Summer Lawns: After the spring growing season, summer brings quite a bit of stress to lawn grasses. Not only are the heat and drought damaging, but we aren’t as forgiving in the summer as we are in the winter. We want our lawns lush and green for outdoor activities, and we try to fight nature by continuing to fertilize, water, and coax new growth out of our lawns no matter what the weather. However, by understanding and respecting the seasonal changes of turf grasses, you can take steps to care gently for your lawn as the mercury rises.  Cool-season grasses (such as fescue, bluegrass, and rye) grow best when temperatures are in the 60s F.  Warm-season grasses (including Zoysia, St. Augustine, Centipede, and Bermuda) like temperatures in the 70s. Once temperatures get into the 80s and above, lawns will begin to struggle a little, with cool season grasses having the hardest time. Growth will slow, color may fade, and lawns will show signs of wear and tear as they are less able to recover from stress and traffic. Some cool season lawns will even go dormant in the summer, looking brown and brittle until early fall.
Water Wisely: Lawns need at least one inch of water per week, and more when the heat is severe. Use a rain gauge or straight-sided can to keep track of the amount of water received from rainfall and irrigation.  Water deeply and less frequently to encourage drought-tolerant roots.  Water early in the day to reduce evaporation and fungal growth.  Either water your lawn regularly and deeply, or don’t water at all. Don’t let your lawn go brown and dormant, then try to “water it back to life.” If your lawn goes dormant in summer, it should stay that way until fall – don’t worry, it should recover once the weather changes.  Small tuna cans make a good temporary water gauge.
Mowing Tips:  Raise your mower blade in the summer. Taller grass is more drought-tolerant, grows deeper roots, and helps shade the earth to prevent weed seeds from germinating. Cool-season grasses should be mowed at 3”- 4” during the summer, or as high as your blade will go, while warm-season grasses should be mowed at 2”- 3”.  Mulching grass clippings helps keep moisture levels steady.  Mow regularly, to prevent cutting more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time. This keeps your grass healthier and prevents the clippings from smothering the grass.  Keep mower blades sharp. Make sure your mower is cutting your grass, not tearing it, to minimize stress during hot temperatures.
Don’t Over Fertilize: If your lawn is looking straggly in midsummer, resist the urge to fertilize. In fact, it’s best to stop fertilizing about 30 days before your area’s summer temperatures arrive. Applying extra fertilizer in the heat of summer can burn your lawn and create a flush of tender growth that will struggle in the hot summer weather. Never fertilize dormant lawns – wait until they green up in the fall.
Control Weeds: Summer is the season to get those growing weeds removed before they bloom and disperse seed for next year. Targeted postemergent herbicides are designed to kill broadleaf weeds without harming turf grass, but they must be applied when temperatures will be below 85° F for a few days. Keep in mind that during the heat of summer, ANY product can be damaging to already-stressed lawn grasses, so use sparingly or hand-pull weeds instead.
High-Traffic Areas: By summer, many lawns begin to show signs of wear, especially in a few popular pathways. Consider installing stepping stones to minimize damage to your grass, and try to minimize traffic on dormant, brittle lawns. If you’re getting plenty of rainfall and your lawn is actively growing, you can apply a bit of fertilizer to these areas to help the blades recover faster.
Insects and Diseases: Dormant or drought-stressed summer lawns can be more susceptible to insect infestations, such as chinch bugs, cutworms, armyworms, sod webworms, fire ants, fleas and mosquitoes. Minor infestations often take care of themselves, but severe problems may require attention.  Summer is also the time for fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew and brown patch. Apply fungicide if needed, and avoid watering in the evening to keep nighttime moisture at a minimum.  Grubs will begin hatching in your lawn over the summer. If grubs typically cause problems in your lawn, you can begin applying grub control around midsummer.
In Conclusion: It's best to hold off until later in the season for most other lawn care practices, including fertilizing, seeding, thatch control, and applying weed killers. The period from late August through early September is ideal for many of these practices. For now, help your lawn by proper mowing, watering, and keeping foot and vehicle traffic off the grass as much as possible during the heat of the summer months. Every step of the way, Natural Concept Landscape is here to assist you with all of your lawn and garden care needs. We offer free consultations and excellent maintenance programs for a very affordable price. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. We are just a phone call away!

AUGUST

AUGUST: For the Love of Summer There is nothing better than summertime… time for beaches, hikes, barbeques, and all the other fun activities that go along with our sunny warm weather in the Northwest. It’s also time to give your lawn and garden some care and maintenance. Here’s some tips to help you keep your lawn green and healthy.

Water Wisely: Summer rainfalls in western Washington are nearly as dry as the east side of the state! Let’s start with watering. Newly planted lawns and gardens need regular watering, but at specific times of day. The best time to water your lawn and plants is actually in the early morning hours, before the sun gets high in the sky. Watering in the mid day sun can actually magnify the sun and damage the grass and other plants. On very hot days you can follow up with another watering in the evening hours. When watering plants, use a soaking sprinkler or apply water at the base of the plant for better saturation. By using low flow watering in garden beds for longer time periods will help water infiltrate soil into the plant root zones more effectively than short periods with high water flow.
Pruning Your Plants, Trees and Shrubs: Be sure to deadhead old flower blooms to encourage fall growth. It’s also a great time to refresh mulch around trees, shrubs, and perennials to reduce weeds and slow water evaporation from soil. Aim for a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer. It’s best to wait until fall for final pruning of trees and shrubs. This eliminates the risk of freeze damage to tender new growth on plants caused by pruning late in the growing season. Promoting new growth too late in the season doesn’t allow plants to harden off their plant tissue.
Keep Your Garden Fertilized: Many plants benefit from a midsummer feeding. Give vegetables a summer feeding by scratching slow-release fertilizer into soil beside plants. If you fertilize your flowers, August is the final month of the year for feeding. Fertilizing roses and other blooming plants now will give them the strength they need to harden off before winter. Osmocote is an all-purpose general fertilizer we recommend and you can find it at any local hardware store or nursery. It works great on bushes, flowers and other plants. Be sure to water your fertilized plants and lawn areas to prevent any chemical burn.
Mowing Tips: And after constant lawn mowing of your lush green lawn, you finally get a break! Mowing frequency should slow down as the grass dries out. Raise your mower blades up one setting and keep your grass a bit longer through the summer. Continue with an application of turf building fertilizer as well. By following these simple steps, you will keep your yard looking great throughout summer.
In Conclusion: Every step of the way, Natural Concept Landscape is here to assist you with all of your lawn and garden care needs. We offer free consultations and excellent maintenance programs for a very affordable price. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. We are just a phone call away! Enjoy the sunshine!

SEPTEMBER

SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER: Fall is in the Air As summer warmth turns to fall rains, it's tempting to give up the gardening and stay inside. However mid-September through the end of November is one of the best times to put time and effort into your yard. Getting a head start as nature slows down means less work and more time to enjoy your lawn garden the next year. Listed below are our tips for your fall lawn maintenance.

Fertilizing: Your lawn is preparing its root base before going dormant for the winter months. Early September and the end of November are good times to fertilize, helping your lawn to thicken up to discourage weeds. Use a weed and feed formula only if you have extensive areas infested with dandelions or other weeds, but if you do, fall is the best time to apply it. Grass dislikes a very acidic soil, so if a soil pH test gives a result below 6.0, apply ground limestone. This will not kill moss, but will give the lawn grass a better chance to compete. It is time to apply crane fly treatment to your lawn. Please review our Monthly Lawn Care Tips: February issue for details on knowing if your lawn has a crane fly infestation. If you have bare spots, over-seeding with a grass mixture recommended for Western Washington lawns should be done before the end of October to give the seedlings a good start before cold weather sets in.
Let Nature Water: It is time to turn off your irrigation service and allow Mother Nature to take care of watering your lawn. It is important to property shut down your irrigation system, and this is a service that Natural Concept Landscape can do for you.
Leaves on Your Lawn: Be sure and keep the falling leaves off your grass as they will cause your grass to rot and you will end up with dead spots. Raking the leaves into your flower beds will provide a wonderful mulch. If you don't want to spend time raking them, run your lawn mower over your lawn two or three times. This will chop the leaves into fine pieces; they quickly decompose and add to your soil's structure.
Mowing, Aerating and Over seeding: Keep mowing your lawn with the mower height at 2½ to 3 inches for as long as your grass needs it. And you leave your clippings on the lawn, because that recycles nutrients and adds to the soil structure. As we stated above, when leaves start to fall, you can mow-mulch those too. A light scattering of leaves will chop up nicely and disappear. When the leaves come down fast, put the bagger back on the mower and pick up those clippings. They make a great compost starter. Getting air to the roots of grasses is important, so if you didn’t do this in spring, aerate your lawn now. Many tools are available to make light work of aeration, but for smaller lawns, a hefty whack with a garden fork or spike aerator will do the job just fine. If you have bare spots in your yard, over-seeding with a grass mixture recommended for Western Washington lawns should be done before the end of October to give the seedlings a good start before cold weather sets in.
Pruning Your Plants, Trees and Shrubs: Early fall is a good time to prune most shrubs and trees, when the weather is warm enough to encourage healing of cuts, but cool enough to discourage unwanted new growth. Complete your pruning by mid-October for best results. If you haven’t already done so, be sure to deadhead old flower blooms to encourage fall growth. It’s also a great time to refresh mulch around trees, shrubs, and perennials to reduce weeds and slow water evaporation from soil. Aim for a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer.
Planters: If your containers look in need of a little pickme-up, switch out tired summer annuals with seasonal color spots such as asters, chrysanthemums (like the burgundy ones pictured here) orcape plumbago (Plumbago auriculata). Be sure to select colors that blend with the remaining container plants for a cohesive look.
In Conclusion: Every step of the way, Natural Concept Landscape is here to assist you with all of your lawn and garden care needs. We offer free consultations and excellent maintenance programs for a very affordable price. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. We are just a phone call away! Enjoy the beauty of Autumn!

OCTOBER

SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER: Fall is in the Air As summer warmth turns to fall rains, it's tempting to give up the gardening and stay inside. However mid-September through the end of November is one of the best times to put time and effort into your yard. Getting a head start as nature slows down means less work and more time to enjoy your lawn garden the next year. Listed below are our tips for your fall lawn maintenance.

Fertilizing: Your lawn is preparing its root base before going dormant for the winter months. Early September and the end of November are good times to fertilize, helping your lawn to thicken up to discourage weeds. Use a weed and feed formula only if you have extensive areas infested with dandelions or other weeds, but if you do, fall is the best time to apply it. Grass dislikes a very acidic soil, so if a soil pH test gives a result below 6.0, apply ground limestone. This will not kill moss, but will give the lawn grass a better chance to compete. It is time to apply crane fly treatment to your lawn. Please review our Monthly Lawn Care Tips: February issue for details on knowing if your lawn has a crane fly infestation. If you have bare spots, over-seeding with a grass mixture recommended for Western Washington lawns should be done before the end of October to give the seedlings a good start before cold weather sets in.
Let Nature Water: It is time to turn off your irrigation service and allow Mother Nature to take care of watering your lawn. It is important to property shut down your irrigation system, and this is a service that Natural Concept Landscape can do for you.
Leaves on Your Lawn: Be sure and keep the falling leaves off your grass as they will cause your grass to rot and you will end up with dead spots. Raking the leaves into your flower beds will provide a wonderful mulch. If you don't want to spend time raking them, run your lawn mower over your lawn two or three times. This will chop the leaves into fine pieces; they quickly decompose and add to your soil's structure.
Mowing, Aerating and Over seeding: Keep mowing your lawn with the mower height at 2½ to 3 inches for as long as your grass needs it. And you leave your clippings on the lawn, because that recycles nutrients and adds to the soil structure. As we stated above, when leaves start to fall, you can mow-mulch those too. A light scattering of leaves will chop up nicely and disappear. When the leaves come down fast, put the bagger back on the mower and pick up those clippings. They make a great compost starter. Getting air to the roots of grasses is important, so if you didn’t do this in spring, aerate your lawn now. Many tools are available to make light work of aeration, but for smaller lawns, a hefty whack with a garden fork or spike aerator will do the job just fine. If you have bare spots in your yard, over-seeding with a grass mixture recommended for Western Washington lawns should be done before the end of October to give the seedlings a good start before cold weather sets in.
Pruning Your Plants, Trees and Shrubs: Early fall is a good time to prune most shrubs and trees, when the weather is warm enough to encourage healing of cuts, but cool enough to discourage unwanted new growth. Complete your pruning by mid-October for best results. If you haven’t already done so, be sure to deadhead old flower blooms to encourage fall growth. It’s also a great time to refresh mulch around trees, shrubs, and perennials to reduce weeds and slow water evaporation from soil. Aim for a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer.
Planters: If your containers look in need of a little pickme-up, switch out tired summer annuals with seasonal color spots such as asters, chrysanthemums (like the burgundy ones pictured here) orcape plumbago (Plumbago auriculata). Be sure to select colors that blend with the remaining container plants for a cohesive look.
In Conclusion: Every step of the way, Natural Concept Landscape is here to assist you with all of your lawn and garden care needs. We offer free consultations and excellent maintenance programs for a very affordable price. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. We are just a phone call away! Enjoy the beauty of Autumn!

NOVEMBER

NOVEMBER: The Beauty of Autumn Fall is iconic—and, sometimes, obnoxious—for the swath of red, orange, yellow and brown deciduous leaves that litter the ground. But this shedding of foliage is more important to our yard’s ecosystem than many of us may believe.

Falling Leaves: The process of shedding leaves is called abscission. When the cool weather sets in and sunlight wanes, the tree releases series of hormones that construct a cell barrier at the base of the leaf petiole—the stem where the leaf meets the tree branch—and block off any remaining glucose from traveling from the leaf to the tree. In cool temperatures, the glucose turns various shades of red. Any yellow color comes from an absence of chlorophyll in the leaf, while brown hues mean its skeletal structure is showing through.
Leaves Are Good for the Garden!: When these leaves fall to the ground, they are anything but a mess! Rather, they bring wondrous benefits to our home ecosystem. Here are the ways your leaves nurture your garden.  All-Natural Fertilizer: Leaves are rich in carbon, trace amounts of glucose, and other nutrients that slowly feed our plants as they decompose.  Cheap and Cozy Mulch: Piled at the base of our plants, or over tender tubers, leaves regulate soil temperature during the frosts of winter and help maintain even soil moisture. They can even keep weeds down when you spread them in open areas!  Soil Microbe Multivitamins: Leaves give our soil microbes, fungi, and nematodes plenty to eat during the cool winter months, resulting in the plant fertilizer mentioned above.  Insect Habitat: Leaf litter—especially when piled high—is a warm, dry, and food-rich habitat for spiders, butterfly larvae, ladybugs, and countless other beneficial insects that need a place to hibernate until spring.  Bird Buffet: Speaking of insect habitat… leaf litter is an excellent place for overwintering bird populations to forage for a winter snack!
Ways to Use Your Leaves: So stow the leaf blower and rake up these carboniferous all-stars off your lawn and low-growing plants to store them in wheelbarrows or paper yard waste bags for year-round use in your yard.  Compost: Mix leaves with grass clippings at a 1:3 ratio to get spectacular yard waste compost!  Worm Bins: Keep some leaves to mix into your worm bin when it gets smelly or overly wet. Red wigglers love leaf litter!  Mulch: Cover open areas, such as flower beds, vegetable gardens, or just plain empty soil, with a thick blanket of leaves to control cool-weather weeds.  Pet Habitats: Drop a few leaves into a pet gecko, frog, or even shrimp habitat to replicate an outdoor habitat inside. Be sure to rinse leaves once or twice with warm water and them let them dry to remove any insects, feces, or other residue. NOTE: if a deciduous tree or shrub is ailing from anthracnose or another contagious disease, if is best to collect those leaves and place them directly in the curbside yard waste bin. So, enjoy this year’s crop of leaves, for their color, their abundance and their life giving properties!
Fertilizing: Fertilization is a perfect example of maintenance for landscapes. It is one of those regular things that you simply cannot afford to neglect. Every year, as the end of autumn approaches, you should apply a final dose of fertilizer to your grass. The lawn will absorb those nutrients and they will help to keep it strong, healthy throughout the winter, and ready to explode into growth when things warm up again.
Let Nature Water: It is time to turn off your irrigation service and allow Mother Nature to take care of watering your lawn. It is important to property shut down your irrigation system, and this is a service that Natural Concept Landscape can do for you.
Aerating the Lawn: Aerate the grassy area before the year’s first freeze. As winter comes, thatch will accumulate and your lawn can be “choked off.” A serious aeration and that aforementioned fall fertilization will prepare your lawn to last out the cold and will position in for maximum spring performance. You can rent an aerator at any hardware store, if you do not own your own. Some people claim to get more than satisfactory results from manual aeration strategies, including special slip-on shoe cleats. Give your lawn a chance to breathe through the winter and it will thank you in the spring. Winter Clean Up Page 3 of 3 If your lawn is smothered in any location, it can do a great deal of harm. Before the really cold weather sits in, walk your property and carefully remove any debris from the lawn. Things like tree branches, an old hose, your children’s toys or that tool you have been meaning to put back into the garage can do serious damage if left in place through the winter. Smothered grass is less disease resilient and may even die completely. You certainly do not want to bring in spring with a brown ring in the middle of the yard!
In Conclusion Every step of the way, Natural Concept Landscape is here to assist you with all of your lawn and garden care needs. We offer free consultations and excellent maintenance programs for a very affordable price. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. We are just a phone call away! Enjoy the beauty of Autumn!

DECEMBER

DECEMBER: Beat the Cold Outwit winter chill by preparing for cold snaps. A few simple steps can mean the difference between a plant that dies or survives. If a frost warning is issued, water plants before temperatures drop. Plants that are well-watered survive frost better. When frost comes without warning, watering afterwards helps plants survive. Irrigate after plants start to thaw. When you're covering plants for the night, ensure your protective coverings touch the ground. Frost protection covers work by trapping radiant heat in soil. As soil releases its heat, the cover holds the heat around the plant. Use fabric covers, such as plant insulating blankets, burlap, or bed sheets. It's easy and quick to build a shelter around tender plants: Anchor stakes in soil and attach a cover to stakes. Fill around the plants with leaves or straw. Not all plants can withstand the same low temperatures. If temperatures are predicted to drop below 25 degrees F, protect pittosporum, fragrant daphne, and waxleaf privet. If temperatures are predicted to drop below 15 degrees F, protect broadleaf evergreens such as rhododendron, camellia, holly, etc.

Test Garden Tip: When a lawn is frozen or grass blades are frost-covered, keep off. Walking on lawns in this condition can actually damage turf crowns.
Pacific Northwest Garden Tasks:  Go on rodent patrol: It's prime season for pesky varmints to chew bark off trees and shrubs. Eliminate hiding places for rodents by removing weeds around woody landscape plants. Also, never pile mulch directly against a tree trunk or shrub base.  Keep compost going: Heavy winter rains can quickly drench compost, eliminating oxygen from the pile and making it stink. Slip a cover over your compost during winter's rainy season. Blanketing the top is fine. Page 2 of 2  Monitor water flow: During heavy rain falls, observe water runoff patterns in your landscape. Address these issues next year with ditches or French drains. Or spend winter learning about rain gardens and bioswales -- and add one of these gardens to your yard.  Store tender roots: Before the month ends, examine roots, tubers, and corms you dug during fall. Compost any that are soft or moldy. On dahlias, cut out bad spots and dust the wound with sulfur. Remove these tubers from the others and store separately.  Stop hitchhikers: Reduce home insect invasions from firewood by bringing in only enough wood to burn for a day. Knock logs together or against the ground before bringing indoors to dislodge insects.
In Conclusion Natural Concept Landscape Co., Inc. is ready to assist you with all of your lawn care needs, offering preventative maintenance as well as on-going lawn and garden maintenance options. We are in the business of making your life a little greener, a little easier, and a lot more enjoyable. Should you notice any problem areas in your lawn, please give us a call to schedule a consultation. Your lawn will be happy you called us… And you will be too! Enjoy the beauty of Winter!

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